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Dining in Boston!

The old oyster
bar at the Union Oyster House is a Boston tradition.
Where's the chawdah?
In Boston, it's as easy to find as a historical building. Or a tavern.
Much like gumbo in New
Orleans, it's everywhere and to experience the culture of
Boston it's the must-do dish of the city.
It's far from the only dish served here; there is, of course, lobster,
crabs, a local dish called scrod, even great burgers (see below), but
it's the place to start our dining and restaurant guide to Boston. See
below for addresses and phone numbers for all restaurants in this article.
And a bit of a warning: chowder is served tongue-burning hot. Resist
the temptation to dive right in and let it sit and cool for a couple
of minutes.
New England clam chowder a thick, white soup with clams, minced
onions and potatoes, NOT to be confused with the red stuff from much-despised
Manhattan is a mainstay of Massachusetts. Finding the best of
this chowder or "chawdah" as they say it here
can be an interesting adventure because everyone has it and they all
claim fame. Again, just like gumbo in Nawlens.
The Best Chowder we found is at Parker's Restaurant, the legendary
Boston restaurant in the equally-legendary Omni
Parker House hotel. It is thick, full of clams and potatoes
and bursting with flavor. But it's over the top because it is served
with those delicious Parker House rolls. For the main dish, the scrod
(cod and haddock) is the restaurant's own creation and has become a
Boston seafood specialty. Dessert calls for the Boston Cream Pie, yet
another item invented here. Considering the old wood wall panels and
elegant decor, prices are moderate; mid-teens to upper $20s for many
dishes.
Missing only the Parker House rolls is the Barking Crab. A rustic
seafood house in South Boston on the water, it shows the range of places
chowder is available in this city. About a 15-minute walk south of Quincy
Market at Fort Point Landing, this oddly-named place with picnic tables
and plastic utensils makes a full-flavor chowder swimming with clams
and potatoes. This can be followed up other seafood dishes (we recommend
the sauteed shrimp but the crab, at $15 and up, is a bit overpriced
considering the atmosphere) and a cold draft beer. In good weather,
the covered patio is a popular gathering spot in the afternoons and
early evenings, often featuring live music. Sunsets can be viewed from
the water toward the financial district.
It would be impossible to visit Boston and not at least get a bowl
of chowder at the Union Oyster House. This legendary landmark,
in the heart of the historic Faneuil Hall area, is the oldest continuous
restaurant in the U.S., having opened in 1826 (there's a lot of "oldest
in the US" in Boston). The building has been around since the 1770s.
In the restaurant's original days, the boats would practically dock
at the rear entrance to bring in the day's catch. Today, the decor hardly
seems to have changed as the red brick walls and thick wood floors seem
to have been here forever. The chowder is served with cornbread 3-4
inches high. But of course it's the oysters that made this place famous,
and they shuck 'em frequently ($10 a half-dozen). Hey, it worked for
Daniel Webster, who reportedly slurped down about three dozen during
his frequent visits (they say he washed 'em down with brandy).
Other dishes include live lobster, fresh fish and specialty dishes
like lobster newberg and pan seared haddock. Prices are mid-teens to
uppers-$20s, with market price on some items. For sides, there are the
famous Boston Baked Beans (ya know, it's Beantown).
The best place to experience the Union Oyster House is at the oyster
bar overlooking the street. The "oystertenders" can also be
quite entertaining. There's only about 10 seats, though, around this
famous horseshoe. Expect long dinner waits, especially on weekends.
Back to the chowder, tourists are bound to be hunting for it in Quincy
Market; the best is at Boston Chowda Co. Don't shy away from
the lobster bisque.
Odd as it may seem, top steakhouses have some of the city's best chowder.
Capitol Grille leads the way. This business-expense restaurant
at the far end of Newberry Street has chowder as satisfying as, say,
its Dry Aged Steak Au Poivre with a Courvoisier Cream Sauce, dry-aged
sirloin or veal chops. It has an extensive wine list and the bar is
known to get lively at times.
Clams
cannot claim to be the only chowder in Boston. Seafood chowder has a
place in the heart (and belly), as well. Many locals in the know brag
about the No Name Cafe, and for good reason. Every spoonful is
like dipping a fishing net in the ocean; you'll come up with something
from the sea (crab, lobster, shrimp) It's served with heavily-buttered
toast. At just $3.95 a bowl, it's the best deal in town. Frankly, it's
lacking a bit in flavor, but it's hard to argue the point with a mouthful
of seafood. Main dishes include scrod, sole, claims shrimp and daily
specials; many entrees are as low at $7.
The No Name is located on Boston Fish Pier, a 10-minute cab ride or
hearty 20-minute walk South of Faneuil Hall. This is where many of Boston's
fresh seafood hauls are brought in for processing and distribution.
The restaurant is halfway down on the right; look for the No Name live
preserver in the window and head upstairs. The decor is wood and simple.
A couple of other notable seafood restaurants are also in this out-of-the-way
area. Anthony's has lobsters caught by its own lobstering company.
Jimmy's has been a local tradition since 1924.
Speaking of seafood, Legal Sea Foods is renowned for its freshness.
Locations are in Copley Square and the Prudential Center, as well as
other places up and down the East Coast. The Seaport District on State
Street by the Long Wharf offers the best view. Don't have its chowder
in Fenway
Park, by the way; too milky. As they like to say here, "All
the clams jumped out!"
In Quincy Market, the folks at Kingfish Hall know their fish
and the chefs know how to cook it. On nice days the patio is the place
to be; otherwise go upstairs as downstairs gets noisy.
Speaking of Quincy Market, this old-time marketplace is Boston's
tourism center. It's in the heart of the Freedom Trail, a three-mile
self-walking "tour" of the city that goes past all the major
historic landmarks. This includes Faneuil Hall, the original town's
main meeting place that still stands today steps from the marketplace.
Quincy Market is one of three long buildings in this primarily pedestrian
area. Built in 1826 it houses many mini-restaurants in an indoor mall-type
area, somewhat similar Seattle's
Pike Place In the Colonnade, one can get a cup of chowder
(see above), a slice from Pizzeria Regina (see below) sandwiches and
sweets. Chocolate-chip cookie lovers should walk outside to Boston
Chipyard; wait for them to come fresh out of the oven. This Boston
tradition was started by ... people from Newport Beach, CA!
Italian/The North End
Boston's oldest residential district Paul Revere's house is
here as is the famed Old North Church where two lanterns were hung signifying
the British were coming by sea is the North End.
Today, it's Boston's Italian district. And Italian means pizza, and
the meanest pizza is town is at Pizzeria Regina (Thacher at N.
Margin). This is not only Boston's finest pizza, but can challenge any
place for best in the USA. That includes Chicago and New York. It is
thin-crust, is baked in a brick oven, the vegetables are fresh (word
has it the place has its own garden) the sausage is from an old family
recipe and the taste lasts for days. Prices are $10-16. Any local's
mouth waters with the words: "Pizzeria Regina in the North End!"
It has good range of draft and bottled beer (does anyone really order
the Schaffer?) to accompany the meal. The place is old and small
less than 20 tables comprise the "dining" area and the small
wooden bar holds a half-dozen, tops. Reservations are not accepted so
it's first-come, first-serve. Go early and be patient; it's worth the
wait.
Weekend Brunch

Newberry Street
patios are popular on weekends. In good weather, of course.
Mixed among the upscale furniture stores, clothing shops, boutiques
and occasional CD/record store on Newberry Street are several cafes
where Boston's trendy professionals can be found having lunch and brunch
on weekends.
For those who want to start the day with a bloody mary and many
do Charley's Eat & Drink Saloon (at Gloucester) is
the place to do it. The perfectly-made "bloodies" are fresh,
not too spicy and have just the right amount of kick (which is to say
after one, it's easy to want another). The food is just as satisfying
and this is the place for breakfast ; the omelets are the size of Mo
Vaughn's waist (though the home fries leave a bit to be desired). The
chowder is good, only about a half-notch below Parker's.
Another popular place along Newberry is Stephanie's (at Exeter).
It is more expensive than Charlie's and the crowd is a bit older (generally
starting in the mid-30s). The drink here is the mimosa ($10 a glass).
The menu is more tailored more for lunch than breakfast. Ciao Bella
(at Fairfield) is busy, but the food is overpriced and average. Perhaps
it's the Cosmopolitan martini that's the draw. Either that, or people
want to return to the scene of the crime from the night before; downstairs
is the popular
late-night bar Daisy Buchannan's.
During the week, locals in the financial district grab a sandwich and
sit out at Post Office Square (50 Federal St.). A small
cafe at the end offers sandwiches and salads and the area has several
other lunchtime restaurants.
Boston's Best Burger
In addition to the spirit provided in its chowder and seafood, Boston
is a tavern town. And for food, the basic tavern fare is the burger.
After trying a few about town, we stumbled upon Clarke's Turn of
the Century Saloon in the Irish bar-heavy Faneuil Hall area. The
burger is thick, juicy and the bun does not overwhelm the meat, a key
factor in PubClub's Worldwide Best Burger search. Our #1, for those
burger-hunting souls, is Ercoles
in Manhattan Beach, CA; #2 is
Rocky's in San Diego and we put Clarke's
at a strong #3.
Clarke's, by the way, is an innocent-looking two-room tavern with nice
sports viewing TVs until about 10 o'clock on weekends when it passes
from quaint pub to rocking, loud club.
Lobster Trapping
Several places sell pound-plus lobsters for $10-12. The many taverns
around Faneuil Hall give one the opportunity to enjoy this local treat
in an old-style setting. For those who don't want to mess with the shell,
lobster rolls (lobster meat on a bun roll) are a good alternative.
But for a real taste of lobsters literally and in the full scenic
sense Rockport, Mass., is the place. Rockport is
is a typical New England fishing village, the type seen in movies like
The Perfect Storm. Restaurants line the wharf; we went to a stand
and enjoyed our lobster sitting on one of Rockport's large rocks and
looked at the fishing boats in the harbor. Other than fighting off the
seagulls it was awesome. Rockport requires a drive. It's about an hour
north of Boston, and the journey passes through Marblehead and Salem.
Boston
Restaurants and Dining Resource Guide
| Restaurant |
Address |
Phone (617) |
| Anthony's |
140 Northern Ave., Pier 4 |
482-6262 |
| Barking Crab |
88 Sleeper St. |
426-2722 |
| Boston Chowda Co. |
Quincy Market |
N/A |
| Capitol Grille |
359 Newberry St. |
262-8900 |
| Charley's Saloon |
284 Newberry St. |
266-3000 |
| Clarke's |
21 Merchant Row (Faneuil Hall) |
227-7800 |
| Jimmy's |
242 Northern Ave. |
423-1000 |
| Kingfish Hall |
South Market Bldg., Faneuil Hall |
523-8862 |
| Legal Seafoods |
225 State St., Long Wharf |
227-3115 |
| No Name Cafe |
15 1/2 Boston Fish Pier |
338-7539 |
| Parker's Restaurant |
60 School St. |
227-8600 |
| Pizzzeria Regina |
11 1/2 Thatcher St. North End |
227-0765 |
| Stephanie's |
190 Newberry St. |
236-0890 |
| Union Oyster House |
41 Union St. |
227-2750 |
Ride
the Boston Party Bus!
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